The X-E2 is the same size as the X100s, shares the same sensor, but has a lens mount enabling the use of the growing range of superb lenses made by Fuji and Zeiss. The X-E2 brings a whole host of new features to the ever expanding Fujifilm X system. Some of the features you will love and others you will rarely use. I mainly shoot portraits so I don’t expect to be using WiFi or the video functions that much but it’s good to know that they are there.
I’ve had the Fujifilm X-E2 for just a couple of weeks but I’ve already studied the camera and the manual in detail to work out how I’m going to shoot with it. Here are three main ways I have established for shooting portraits with the Fujifilm X-E2 camera. I got caught out at times on the journey to making the camera work for me but where there is a will there is a way. Here are my three set-ups in detail…
These are my Q menu settings that are common to all three shooting systems. They affect the jpeg output and the way the image is viewed on the LCD or EVF:
DR 100
NR -2
L 3.2
RAW-F
H tone 0
S tone 0
Colour 0
Sharp -1
LCD brightness 0
(The size of the jpeg recorded affects the maximum in-camera playback zoom)
Shooting System 1:
This is my natural or continuous lighting set up and uses aperture priority in conjunction with auto ISO. Here are my settings for that working method:
ISO set to 200 Auto on ~ max 6400 with a minimum shutter speed set for each lens as follows: 14mm ~ 1/60th second, 23mm ~ 1/100th second, 35mm ~ 1/160th second and 60mm lens ~ 1/250th second.
Shutter speed dial set to A
Aperture dial set to f/1.4 – f/4 as required
Jpeg Fine + Raw
Auto WB
Ns film simulation
AF set to S Activated on a half press of the shutter. I then move the focus zone around the frame as needed. I set the focus zone as the smallest square available as any background detail within the square during focussing might cause the lens to back focus.
With these settings dialled in I just pick up the camera, switch it on and start shooting. I adjust the shooting the exposure compensation as required via the very convenient dial, I change the focus zone to the best position for each shot and I reset the minimum shutter speed for Auto ISO in the ISO menu (Fn button) if I change my lens.
With the AF set to activate on a half shutter press I have to focus before every exposure. I rarely shoot multiple frames the same so I really don’t mind doing this.
I set the aperture and let the camera adjust the ISO from 200 to 6400 to suit the light level. When it runs out of ISO range it alters the shutter speed. I came to the values of minimum shutter speed using my simple formula* (See the section on shutter speed below). Occasionally I’ll dial in a higher shutter speed, especially when using the 14mm lens if the subject movement demands it. I just set the shutter speed dial to the value I want and the auto ISO continues to perform just as before.
Notes: Jpeg Fine added to the Raw format ensures a 100% speed zoom function on picture review. Ns film simulation gives me a natural rendition of the contrast recorded. I change the look as required in Adobe Lightroom.
Shooting System 2:
This is my studio flash method where the ambient light plays no part in the exposure. The camera is in full manual mode:
ISO set to 200 Auto ISO switched off
Shutter speed set to 180x
Jpeg Fine + Raw
White balance set to sunny day
Ns film simulation
Aperture set to f/11
Autofocus set to Manual
Focus using AF lock button
The AF position is moved around the frame as required
Preview exposure in manual mode set to off [ Menu > Set -up 1 > Screen set-up > Preview Exp. in manual mode > toggle on or off]
Notes: The exposure preview in manual mode is fabulous but in the studio it needs to be switched off otherwise the LCD and the EVF are just black. I shoot all my studio flash work at f/11 because my principal flash heads are at 1/4 power or so, they recycle quickly and have at least two stops of adjustment available in either direction.
Shooting System 3:
I use this set up when I am in the studio using continuous light or when I’m shooting interior portraits or using Speedlights on location where the ambient light is part of the exposure. Full manual exposure.
Aperture set to f/1.4 – f/2.8 for DOF requirements
Shutter speed set manually to at least 4x the focal length (primes) or 180x if using flash
ISO set as required. ISO adjustments are 1/3rd stop so I use this for exposure adjustment [Fn button assigned ISO]
Auto ISO switched off
Jpeg Fine + Raw
White balance set to Auto
Ns film simulation
Autofocus set to Manual
Focus using AF lock button
The AF position is moved around the frame as required
Preview exposure in manual mode set to on [ Menu > Set -up 1 > Screen set-up > Preview Exp. in manual mode > toggle on or off]
Notes: This set up is perfect if the light level is not changing often. Examples include when a bride is having her hair and makeup done or boudoir shoots in hotel bedrooms. Once the exposure is set using the ISO it can usually be left alone. With the ‘preview exposure in manual mode’ switched on it is easy to see any changes necessary before the shutter is pressed. What you see is what you get.
If I’m shooting dramatic location flash with the ambient light exposure cut by two or more stops I switch the ‘preview exposure in manual mode’ facility off otherwise I can’t see to compose. In sunlight or bright daylight I often use a NDx16 or NDx32 filter to get from f/11 or f/16 down to f/2.8. The great news is the brightness of the LCD or EVF on the Fuji X-E2 adjusts accordingly once the exposure preview is off so it’s business as usual. On an SLR it would be tough to see the picture with this amount of ND. Hence SLRs often need high speed sync to achieve a similar look. That option is not always possible when using big pro flash systems so the Fuji X and ND filter is the best all round solution. The Fuji X-100 has a handy NDx8 ( 3 stop) filter built in.
When working with the Fujifilm X lenses set to a wide aperture I adjust the position of the focus zone using the controls on the back of the camera. I use this system because the lenses are a flat field design. That is, the edges of the frame focus at a further distance from the camera than the centre of the image for any given lens position making the focus reframe method of shooting far less accurate. The great news with the X system is that unlike a dSLR the peripheral focus zones are very sensitive and are completely useable. One problem though is I have yet to find a way of setting the focus area to a smaller size on the X-E2 in Manual mode. It remains a big white rectangle. I think that this must be a system bug that will be corrected with a firmware upgrade soon. Fujifilm are very good at providing firmware upgrades on a regular basis.
*A note about shutter speed and focal length with Fujifilm X cameras. For hand held shooting I have found that the pixel pitch of a 12mp APS-C sensor (X100) requires a shutter speed of 1/ (3*F) where F is the focal length of the lens. So for the X100 where F=23mm I use a shutter speed of 1/80th second as it is the closest value I can set using the auto iso function above my calculated value of 1/69th second. When I’m shooting hand held using a manual exposure system I have to choose 1/125th second as the shutter speed dial is in whole stop increments. With an X Trans APS-C sensor of 16mp (X-Pro1, X100s and X-E2) the pixel pitch is smaller still and I find I need a shutter speed 1/(4*F) to get acceptably sharp pictures hand held.
The future: I hope that there is an X-Pro2 camera and it has in camera, or on sensor, stabilisation especially if the pixel count goes up to 21 million pixels on an organic APS-C sensor. That will ensure the 56mm or 60mm lenses can be used hand held at 1/60th second rather than 1/250th second. Having to use a monopod is a bit of a pain that I can do without. I doubt I’ll ever be shooting the 56mm lens wider than f/2 except for full length portraits but we will have to wait and see.
I hope this first findings guide is useful. Being an early adopter of any system is a challenge in itself but I get the added advantage of a long service life from my cameras before they become superseded.
Feel free to comment on these settings and mention other ways you use the camera for shooting portraits.
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